Kelaghayi: types, how to spot real silk and how to care for it

A kelaghayi is a square women’s headscarf woven from fine silk in the city of Sheki and the village of Basgal in Ismayilli district, dyed with plant-based dyes and decorated with patterns stamped by wooden blocks. In 2014 the art of kelaghayi was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. When buying, check two things: whether the fabric is real silk and whether the pattern was applied by hand or by machine — these two factors largely set a kelaghayi’s value.

Short answer: a genuine kelaghayi is made of natural silk: it warms quickly in your palm, has a soft, shifting sheen, and its pattern shows the small irregularities of hand stamping. Wash it by hand only, in cool water, and store it away from sunlight. Kelaghayi listings on Prayk are still rare: as of 22 September 2026, only 3 of the 157 listings in the five sections we checked were kelaghayi — at 15 AZN, 35 AZN (satin, 140×140 cm) and 100 AZN (100% silk, Sheki, 1980s).

What is a kelaghayi and why is it on the UNESCO list?

According to UNESCO, the art of kelaghayi is rooted in the traditions of the Great Silk Road and is concentrated in two places in Azerbaijan: the city of Sheki and the Basgal settlement. The element is inscribed as “Traditional art and symbolism of Kelaghayi, making and wearing women’s silk headscarves”. Making one involves three main stages:

1. Weaving. Weavers choose fine silk thread from silk producers, weave the fabric on looms, then boil and dry it and cut square scarves.
2. Dyeing. Craftspeople dye the cloth in various colours using plant-based substances.
3. Patterning. The pattern is applied with wooden stamps dipped in a mixture of rosin, paraffin and solid fat. The mixture stops dye soaking into the stamped areas, so the pattern stays a different colour.

Colour carries meaning: UNESCO notes that colours are tied to specific occasions such as weddings, mourning, daily life and celebrations. The craft is passed on through informal apprenticeship, mainly within families, and each family has its own style and set of patterns — so even two masters’ scarves with the same motif look different. Official description: UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage page.

Types of kelaghayi: what sets them apart?

Scarves sold as “kelaghayi” can be told apart by four criteria:

The most common motif is the buta (the paisley-like teardrop); the border and central composition vary by family and master. Sellers sometimes give the colour a traditional name — for example, the 100 AZN Sheki kelaghayi listed on Prayk gives its colour as «soğanı» (onion-skin).

How can you tell a real silk kelaghayi?

No single sign is a guarantee, so check several together:

1. Feel and warmth. Natural silk warms quickly in your palm and feels soft and slightly “dry”. Synthetic fabric stays cool and slippery for a long time.
2. Sheen. Silk has a soft sheen that shifts in tone with the viewing angle. Polyester has an even, whitish, “plastic” shine.
3. Pattern. Hand-stamped patterns show slight shifts where stamps meet and small variations in colour depth. Motifs that are identical down to the pixel point to machine printing. Look at the back too: on fine silk the dye penetrates the fabric and the pattern is clearly visible from behind; when printed on the face only, the back looks faded.
4. Label and origin. Look for “100% silk” in the composition and the name of the maker or workshop; ask the seller where and by whom the scarf was made.
5. Burn test — only with the seller’s permission. Burn a thread that has come loose at the edge: silk burns slowly, smells like burnt hair and leaves ash you can crush between your fingers. A synthetic thread melts into a hard bead and smells of chemicals.

Price is a signal too: if a kelaghayi described as “100% natural silk, handmade” is priced like a synthetic scarf, ask more questions and check the fabric by hand when you meet.

How do you wash and store a kelaghayi?

• Hand wash only. Use cool or lukewarm water (up to 30 °C) and a mild detergent made for silk and wool; no washing machine, no bleach.
• Test the colour first. Plant dyes can bleed — before the first wash, dampen a hidden corner and rub it with white cloth. Take an old or very valuable piece to a professional dry cleaner.
• Don’t wring. Roll the scarf in a towel and press gently to remove water, then dry it flat in the shade.
• Ironing. Use the “silk” setting, iron on the reverse side through thin cotton, and don’t spray water — it can leave marks.
• Storage. Keep it away from sunlight in a cotton or linen bag; plastic traps moisture. Silk left folded along the same lines for a long time weakens at the folds — refold it differently now and then, or store it rolled.
• Perfume and cosmetics. Don’t spray perfume directly on the kelaghayi — alcohol and oils can stain silk.
• Moths. Use natural repellents such as lavender or cedar, and air the wardrobe regularly.

Kelaghayi on Prayk: what is available and at what price?

On 22 September 2026 we reviewed every listing in the five sections where a kelaghayi might appear: Hats, scarves, gloves; Women’s carnival and national costumes; Handmade clothing, footwear and accessories; Hijabs and niqabs; and Gifts and souvenirs. Of the 157 listings in these sections, only 3 were kelaghayi:

Three listings are too few to draw conclusions about market price, but the logic is clear: price depends mainly on material and age. Note that sellers spell the word in different ways — «kələğayı», «kəlağayı», «kələyağı» — so try several spellings when searching. Look for kelaghayi and similar scarves in Hats, scarves, gloves, Women’s carnival and national costumes, Handmade clothing and accessories and Gifts and souvenirs; all handmade goods are in the Handmade section. To find listings with a similar pattern, use image search.

If you are selling a kelaghayi

Put the word «kələğayı» (kelaghayi), the material and the origin in the title, for example: “Kelaghayi, 100% silk, Basgal”. In the text, give the size in centimetres, age, colour and any flaws (fading, holes, stains). Add daylight photos of both sides, a close-up of the pattern and the label — when the silk’s sheen and the traces of hand stamping show in photos, buyers decide faster. More tips: how to write a good listing.

If you are choosing one as a gift

Mind the meaning of colour: ask the seller or maker which occasion the scarf suits; a black kelaghayi is traditionally associated with mourning. If it is a gift for a foreign guest, it is a nice touch to include a short care note and a card explaining that kelaghayi is on UNESCO’s heritage list.

Frequently asked questions

When was kelaghayi added to the UNESCO list?

The art of kelaghayi was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2014, under the title “Traditional art and symbolism of Kelaghayi, making and wearing women’s silk headscarves”.

Where is kelaghayi made?

According to UNESCO, the art of kelaghayi is concentrated in two places in Azerbaijan: the city of Sheki and the Basgal settlement in Ismayilli district. The craft is passed down mainly within families, from master to apprentice.

How do you tell a silk kelaghayi from a synthetic one?

Natural silk warms quickly in your palm, has a soft, shifting sheen, and hand-stamped patterns show small irregularities. Synthetic fabric stays cool and slippery with an even shine. With the seller’s permission, a burn test also helps: silk smells like burnt hair and leaves ash, while synthetics melt into a hard bead.

Can you wash a kelaghayi in a washing machine?

It is not recommended. A silk kelaghayi should be hand-washed in water up to 30 °C with a mild silk detergent and dried flat in the shade without wringing. Old and valuable pieces are safer with a professional dry cleaner.

How much does a kelaghayi cost on Prayk?

As of 22 September 2026, kelaghayi listings on Prayk are rare: of 157 listings in the five sections checked, 3 were kelaghayi — at 15 AZN (thin shiny fabric), 35 AZN (satin, 140×140 cm) and 100 AZN (100% silk, Sheki, 1980s). That is too few to calculate a market median.

Sources and methodology

The history of kelaghayi, the making stages and the year of inscription come from UNESCO’s official page. Prayk data come from the public catalogue on 22 September 2026: we reviewed the titles of all listings in Hats, scarves, gloves; Women’s carnival and national costumes; and Handmade clothing, footwear and accessories (95 listings in total), plus Hijabs and niqabs and Gifts and souvenirs (62 listings in total). Title search was not responding that day, so kelaghayi listings were picked from the full section lists; listings placed in other sections may be missed. With fewer than 15 listings, no median is given. Tips on identifying silk and on care reflect general practice for natural silk fabrics.